For over twenty years, after the fall of the Ottomans, Lebanon was a French mandate and since then Paris has been home to generations of Lebanese families. It’s practically as ubiquitous as Indian food in London, and just as delicious. It’s also super Vegan-friendly and your best chance of getting good animal-free food if you find yourself suddenly hungry in Paris. Particularly if you find yourself in a more touristique part of Paris, like over by the Eiffel Tower or Arc de Triomphe, Lebanese can be a life saver. And it’s really easy to stop someone in the street and ask where the nearest “restaurant Libanais” is.

Lebanese food is one of my favorite somethings about living in Paris. I crave it often and would be happy to eat it much more often. It always tastes so fresh with such variety of vegetables, textures, dips and salads. A combo plate usually consists of mouttabal, hommous, feuilles de vigne, taboulleh, falafel, fatayer, green beans in sauce and excellent pita. They’ll often also include some cheese, so just ask them for no cheese and they’ll usually cheerfully substitute something. As a rule of thumb, a vegetarian plate will run around 15 euros.

I’m starting a list of some that I have visited and will add to it as I sample more of this wonderful cuisine.

Noura
Institut du Monde Arabe, 9th floor, 1 rue des Fossés St Bernard, 75005
Métro : Cardinal Lemoine or Jussieu
01 55 42 55 42
Multiple locations in Paris including two spots at L’Institut du Monde Arabe: their nice and casual ground floor café and pricier top floor restaurant which many Parisians say has the best view of the city of any dining spot. Its prices reflect this, but still affordable as a treat. Classy joint, impeccable service, fab fattoush.

L’Escale du Liban
1, rue Ferdinand Duval, 75004
Métro: St. Paul
01 42 74 55 70
This is the closest Lebanese to my house and probably the best in the Marais. Casual, great for takeout, excellent taboulleh. I would skip the Mannakish breads, though. If it’s Sunday and you want a Mannakish, get yourself down the fairly nearby Bastille market.

Liza
14, rue de la Banque
Paris, France 75002
Métro: Bourse
01 55 35 00 66

Al Boustan
21, rue Montorgueil 75001
Métro: Étienne Marcel
01 40 41 02 40
A Casual little place with take-out counter. Good take-out deals, nice to sit outside on a great street for people watching and soaking up city atmosphere.

Naî
229, Rue Du Faubourg-Saint-Honore 75008
Métro: Ternes
01 40 68 90 70
Not far from Arc de Triomphe or to escape from the Champs d’Elysee. Nice place, with great veg plate and great service.

Traiteur Al Sage
If you are on the run, or on the run from the prices of this swanky neighborhood,  the take-out place on the corner of Ave Hoche and Faubourg St. Honore offers great cheap eats fast.

Tavern du Nil
16-18 rue le Régrattier, 75004
Métro: Pont Marie
01 40 46 09 02
I hear this place is quite good, but haven’t visited yet. It’s on the Île St. Louis so if you’re headed there for Berthillon sorbets, you can do the double.

Al Dar
93, av Raymond Poincaré, 75016
Métro: Victor Hugo
01 45 00 96 64
One of the most highly regarded Lebanese spots in town. The actual restaurant is underground, beneath the pastry shop and café. If you are very hungry and want to splurge, the set menu is expensive but will fill even the most ravenous herbivore. They also have a location in the fifth.

It’s right in the middle of the city – right next to the mega Les Halles station- so if you are just passing through the city this could be your vegan destination.

My kids always have the beignets de tofu (tofu ‘nuggets’) and the soy mango lassi. We like the fake fried chicken they make here, and last time I went I had the coconut curry with eggplant and the ‘chicken’: it was lovely and the eggplant was melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

They have a ‘grain of the day’ and ‘potato of the day,’ etc. so the accompaniments will change based on when you go. Our plates had mashed potato and quinoa last time we went. 

This is the former location of La Victoire Suprême du Coeur and it is basically the same ambience and menu as the old VSDC.

PROS: Central. Basically vegan, with clear labelling. Hearty portions.

CONS: I never can leave room for dessert! No alcohol.

Végét’Halles
41 rue des Bourdonnais, 75001
01 40 41 93 95
Métro: Châtelet or Les Halles

Here in France the awning will say ‘vegetarian restaurant’ but they might serve fish because they are macrobiotic. I’m going to include those restaurants here, even though a fish is never going to be a vegetable. There are also many places that offer vegan food even though they are not vegetarian restaurants. They aren’t on this list, but you’ll find plenty about them elsewhere on this blog.

Restaurants come and go and their hours can be unreliable so I recommend calling first before you get your heart set on it.

Enjoy!

[Updated: March 28, 2009]

Saveurs Végét’Halles

41, Rue des Bourdonnais, Paris 75001

Métro: Chatelet or Les Halles

01 40 41 93 95

This restaurant is so close to being vegan with only one non-vegan item on the menu: the lasagne. Situated in the former location of La Victoire Suprême du Coeur. Great crispy fried tofu. Plenty of vegan desserts. Review

Le Potager du Marais

22, Rue Rambuteau, Paris 75003

Métro: Rambuteau

01 42 74 24 66

Organic, with all-day long service. Small, cozy and charming: my favorite ambience. Gets busy weekend evenings, so call for a reservation.

Le Végétarien

65, rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, Paris 75003

Métro: Poissonnière

06 60 97 16 12

Recently opened restaurant. Looking forward to trying it out.

Le Grand Appétit

9, Rue la Cerisaie, Paris 75004

Métro: Bastille

01 40 27 04 95

All vegan restaurant. It’s very macrobiotic and hippy: get ready for a no frills experience (i.e. you’ll be setting your own table.) I love it, though, because it is vegan and they have a great grocery store next door.

La Victoire Suprême du Coeur

27-31, rue du Bourg Tibourg, Paris 75004

Métro: Hôtel de Ville

01 40 41 95 03

This restaurant has gone all vegan! Run by devotees of Sri Chinmoy. They’ve also recently introduced a wine list. The Sunday lunch buffet is very popular. The location is lovely, great for people watching and I go there often because it’s on my little street. Review

Les Cinq Saveurs d’Ananda

72, Rue Cardinal-Lemoine, Paris 75005

Métro: Place Monge

01 43 29 58 54

Great macrobiotic plates. Very friendly staff and in a charming part of the Latin Quarter.

Le Grenier de Notre-Dame

18, Rue de la Bûcherie, Paris 75005

Métro: Saint-Michel

01 43 29 98 29

or

Rue des Deux-Ponts, Paris 75004

Métro: Pont Marie

Welcoming, macrobiotic oriented, Paris institution. Review

Maoz Vegetarian

8, Rue Xavier Privas, Paris 75005

Métro: Saint Michel

01 43 26 36 00

Small falafel place. Close to vegan except for a few cheesy items and the mayonnaise in the coleslaw. No gross schwarmas here! Order at the counter, fight for one of the three tables or walk to the Seine with your sandwich.

Guen Mai

6, Rue Cardinale, Paris 75006

Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

01 43 26 03 24

That means brown rice in Japanese, you know. Macrobiotic. They have a counter service as well as seated dining. Tucked right behind St.-Germain-des-Prés and I love their sidewalk café tables.

Pousse-Pousse

7, rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 75009

Métro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette

01 53 16 10 81

World-class raw cuisine in the heart of Paris in a small and friendly location. I love this place with all my heart. Review

Bob’s Juice Bar

15, Rue Lucien Sampaix, Paris 75010

Métro: Jacques Bonsergent

09 50 06 36 18

A lovely juice bar that even does green juices. A vegan salad and soup everyday. The best juice bar in town. Review

Krishna Bhavan

24, Rue Cail, Paris 75010

Métro: Gare du Nord or La Chapelle

01 42 05 78 43

Sounthern Indian/Sri Lankan, very vegan friendly with great prices. Review

Tien Hiang

92, Rue du Chemin Vert, Paris 75011

Métro: Voltaire

01 43 55 83 88

Buddhist restaurant. Very vegan. Casual and chinese. Unfortunately, they use MSG, but you can ask them to hold it.

Green Garden

20, Rue Nationale, Paris 75013

Métro: Porte d’Ivry

01 45 82 99 54

Another Buddhist Chinese restaurant with a big menu. It’s really good and right in Chinatown. Review

Aquarius

40, Rue Gergovie, 75014 Paris

Métro: Pernety

01 45 41 36 88

I have never been here, because I have read there’s basically nothing for vegans. Please add a comment if I am wrong.

Joy in Food

2, Rue Truffaut, Paris 75017

Métro: Place Clichy

01 43 87 96 79

Lively hole in the wall. Open for lunch week days only. A vegan option available for each course.

Au Grain de Folie

24, Rue la Vieuville, Paris 75018

Métro: Abesses

01 42 58 15 57

A trippy little nook of a place with helpful service and standard macrobiotic fare. Review